Founder, Arklavo · Custom apparel for 1,000+ U.S. businesses
Key takeaways
- Three measurements decide how a shirt fits: chest, body length, and sleeve. Chest is the one that matters most, since it drives whether the shirt is snug or roomy.
- The fastest method is to measure a shirt you already own. Lay it flat, measure pit to pit, and double that number to get the full chest.
- Charts list half the garment, not the full circumference. A flat chest width taken one inch below the armhole is doubled to get the measurement around your body.
- The same label size fits differently across brands. A slim 3001 and a fuller Gildan 5000 can both say medium and still feel like different shirts.
- No minimums on custom orders. You can order one shirt to confirm the fit before a team or store run.
Learning how to measure shirt size takes about two minutes and a tape measure, and it saves you the cost of a re-run on an order that came back too tight or too loose. The trick is to measure a real garment or a real body instead of guessing from a label, because label sizes drift from brand to brand. This guide walks you through the three numbers that matter, shows you both methods step by step, and explains why a chart lists half the shirt. Get these right once and your next order lands the way you pictured it.
At Arklavo we've built branded apparel for more than 1,000 U.S. businesses, and the single most common cause of a fit problem is a size picked off a hunch. Below is the same measuring process we walk every customer through before a team run, plus the practical advice that keeps a group order from coming back wrong.
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Request a quote Shop custom apparelThe three measurements that decide how a shirt fits
Three numbers decide how a shirt fits: chest width, body length, and sleeve length, and chest is by far the most important. Chest controls whether the shirt feels snug or roomy across the torso, which is the difference most people notice first. Body length sets where the hem falls, and sleeve length matters most on long-sleeve styles. Get the chest right and you're most of the way to a good fit.
Chest is the priority because it's the measurement that shifts the most between body types and the one a chart is built around. Body length is the second check, since a shirt that fits the chest but runs short or long still reads as the wrong size. Sleeve length is the third, and it only becomes a real factor on long-sleeve tees, henleys, and button-downs where a cuff that sits in the wrong place is obvious. For a plain short-sleeve tee, chest and body length carry the decision.
Each of the next sections covers one method, so you can either measure a shirt that already fits or measure your body directly. Both land you on the same answer. If you want to see how those numbers map onto specific blanks across the market, our ultimate t-shirt size chart guide lines the popular tees up in one place.
How to measure a t-shirt you already own
The best way to nail a size is to measure a shirt that already fits you well, because a garment measurement doesn't drift the way a label does. Pick a tee you reach for often, lay it flat on a table, and smooth out every wrinkle. With the shirt flat you can take clean, repeatable numbers in under a minute.
For the chest, measure straight across the shirt from one underarm seam to the other, about one inch below where the sleeve meets the body. That flat number is the chest width. Double it and you've the full chest circumference, which is what a chart compares against. For body length, run the tape from the highest point of the shoulder near the collar straight down to the bottom hem. For sleeve, measure from the shoulder seam to the end of the cuff on a short-sleeve tee.
Write down all three, then match them to the chart for the blank you're ordering. If you land between two rows, size up for a relaxed wear or stay put for a closer fit. This flat-measure method removes almost every size surprise, and it's the same one we hand to customers outfitting a crew. When a team spans different body types, our free unisex size converter translates between men's, women's, and unisex so everyone lands in the right shirt.
| Measurement | Where to start | Where to stop |
|---|---|---|
| Chest width | One underarm seam | The other underarm seam, doubled |
| Body length | Top of the shoulder by the collar | Bottom hem |
| Sleeve length | Shoulder seam | End of the cuff |
How to measure your body for a shirt
If you don't have a shirt that fits, measure your body directly by wrapping a soft tape around the fullest part of your chest while keeping it level all the way around. Stand relaxed, breathe normally, and run the tape under your arms and across the widest point of your chest and back. Keep it snug but not tight, and make sure it sits flat and even, not riding up at the back.
That chest circumference is the number to compare against a size chart's full chest column. Because charts often list a flat, half-garment width, you may need to double the chart number to put it on the same footing as your body measurement, which the next section explains. For body length, measure from the base of your neck down to where you want the hem to fall, usually around the hip. For sleeve on a long-sleeve style, you'll measure from the center back of the neck out to the wrist, which the sleeve section below covers in detail.
A few habits keep body measurements honest. Use a flexible cloth tape rather than a rigid one, have a second person help if you can, and take each number twice to confirm it. Measure over a thin shirt or bare skin, not over a bulky layer, since a sweater adds inches that aren't really yours. With a clean chest number in hand, the chart does the rest.
One thing worth knowing is that a body measurement is your raw frame, not your shirt size. A shirt is cut with ease, meaning extra room built in so the fabric doesn't cling, so the garment is always a little larger than your bare chest. That's why measuring a shirt that fits is more reliable than measuring your body alone: the garment already includes the ease, while your body number doesn't. If you only have a body measurement, lean toward the size whose full chest sits a few inches above your raw number, which leaves the room a comfortable shirt needs.
Chest width vs full chest: why charts show half the garment
Most size charts list chest as a flat width measured one inch below the armhole, which is half the garment, so you double it to get the full circumference around your body. This trips up a lot of first-time orderers. The number on the chart isn't the measurement around your chest. It's the width of the shirt laid flat, from one side seam to the other.
The reason charts use a flat half-measurement is that it's the easiest dimension for a manufacturer to take consistently on a garment lying on a table.1 A shirt that lists a 20 inch chest width is 20 inches across the front when flat, which means roughly 40 inches of fabric all the way around. So if you measured your own body at a 40 inch chest, that flat 20 inch listing is your match. Forget to double and you'll order a shirt built for someone twice your size, or half it the wrong way and order something that won't go over your head.
The fix is a single habit: when you read a chart, check whether the chest column is a flat width or a full circumference, then put your body number on the same footing before you compare. When in doubt, double the flat chart number and compare it to your around-the-body measurement. Most published charts note that garment makers allow one to three inches of variation on these listed dimensions, so treat the chart as a tight guideline rather than an exact promise.2
How to measure sleeve length
For a long-sleeve shirt, measure from the center back of the neck, across the shoulder, and down to the cuff, while a short sleeve is measured from the shoulder seam straight down. Sleeve length only becomes a deciding factor on long-sleeve tees, henleys, and button-downs, but when it matters, it's the difference between a cuff that sits at the wrist and one that swallows your hand or rides up your forearm.
The long-sleeve method follows the natural path of your arm. Start the tape at the center back of your neck, run it out over the top of the shoulder, then continue down the slightly bent arm to where you want the cuff to land at the wrist. Bending the arm a little matters, because a sleeve measured on a dead-straight arm reads short the moment you reach for something. On a finished shirt, you can take the same path on the garment itself: center back of the collar, over the shoulder seam, out to the cuff.
For a short-sleeve tee, the measurement is simpler. Lay the shirt flat and measure from the top of the shoulder seam straight down to the hem of the sleeve. That number tells you how far the sleeve falls down the upper arm, which is mostly a style preference rather than a fit make-or-break. Most people leave short-sleeve length to the blank's standard cut and focus their attention on chest and body length instead.
Why the same size fits differently across brands
A medium in one brand isn't a medium in another, because each blank is cut on its own block, so a slim Bella and Canvas 3001 and a fuller Gildan 5000 can both read medium and still feel like different shirts. This is the single biggest reason people order the wrong size. They trust the label that worked last time and forget that the label is set by the maker, not by an industry standard.
The differences are real and measurable. A fashion tee like the 3001 is cut slim and runs trim through the body, so it reads closer to the frame. A heavy cotton workhorse like the Gildan 5000 is cut straight and boxy, so the same chest size wears roomier. Garment-dyed pieces such as Comfort Colors sit relaxed and can shift after washing. Put those three side by side at a listed medium and you get three different fits, which is exactly why measuring beats guessing.
The way to stay out of trouble is to always work from a measurement and match it to the specific brand's chart, not to your memory of a past order. Each blank we carry has its own published chart, and pulling the right one takes a moment. For the most common blanks, we keep dedicated guides ready: the Gildan size chart for the boxy heavy cotton standard, the Comfort Colors size chart for the relaxed garment-dyed look, and the youth shirt size chart when the order includes kids. Cross-checking your measurement against the right one is the whole game.
How to measure for a team or bulk order
For a group order, collect a real measurement or known good size from each person, order a single fit sample to confirm the blank, then place the full run against a standard size spread. Guessing a size breakdown for fifty people from a spreadsheet is where bulk orders go sideways. A short size form and one sample shirt remove almost all of that risk.
Start by sending everyone the two-line measuring instructions from this guide along with the chart for the exact blank you're ordering. Ask for a chest width or a known good size rather than a vague label guess. Total the responses into a spread, and flag anyone who landed between two rows so they can choose snug or relaxed before you commit. A practical starting point for a mixed U.S. adult group leans heavily on medium and large, which together cover the bulk of most teams.
| Size | Rough share of a mixed adult run |
|---|---|
| S | ~10% |
| M | ~25% |
| L | ~35% |
| XL | ~20% |
| 2XL | ~10% |
Treat that spread as a starting point you adjust to your actual roster, not a rule. A youth or sports group skews smaller, while a trades crew can skew larger. Because we hold no minimums, you can order one shirt to approve both the print and the fit in person, then place the full run in the exact spread you need. That single approval step costs almost nothing and removes the one risk that turns a good order into a re-run.
Common measuring mistakes and how to avoid them
Most sizing problems come from measuring your body instead of a favorite shirt, pulling the tape tight, or ignoring body length, and all three are easy to avoid once you know to watch for them. After running these orders for years, the same handful of slips show up again and again, and a couple minutes of care prevents every one.
The first mistake is reaching for a body measurement when a perfectly good shirt is hanging in the closet. Measuring a tee that already fits is more reliable, because it accounts for the cut and ease of a real garment rather than just your raw frame. The second is pulling the tape tight, on the body or the garment. A tape cinched snug shaves an inch or more and pushes you down a size, so keep it flat and relaxed. The third is sizing on chest alone and ignoring body length, which leaves you with a shirt that fits across but rides up short or hangs too long.
Two more slips round out the list. Forgetting to double a flat chest width is the classic chart error, covered above, and it sends people a full size or more off target. Trusting your usual label across brands is the other, since a medium isn't a medium everywhere. The fix for all five is the same discipline: measure a shirt that fits, keep the tape level and loose, check chest and body length both, double the flat number, and match it to the correct brand chart. Do that and the wrong-size shirt simply stops happening.
Putting your measurements to work on a real order
The fastest way to use these measurements is to drop the chart into a short size form, let people self-measure against it, then order a single sample before the full run. A measuring method only helps if your team actually uses it, so make it easy. Add the two-line instructions to your order form and ask for a chest width or a known good size from each person rather than a label guess.
Here's the workflow we recommend. First, share the chart for your exact blank and collect sizes. Second, total them into a spread and flag anyone between two rows so they can decide on snug or relaxed. Third, order one shirt in the most common size to approve both the print and the fit in person. Fourth, place the full order in the confirmed spread, knowing the sample already proved it out. Because we hold no minimums, that approval step costs almost nothing. For the full picture of how sizes line up across every blank, keep our t-shirt size chart guide open in the next tab, and use the unisex size converter to translate across men's, women's, and unisex in seconds.
Why measuring up front saves the whole order
I have sized and printed more shirts than I can count, and the pattern never changes: the orders that go wrong are almost always the ones where someone skipped the tape measure. They ordered by label, guessed the spread, and ended up with a pile of mediums nobody asked for. The orders that go right start with two minutes and a measurement, then a single sample to confirm it.
That's the whole argument for measuring up front. It's the cheapest insurance in custom apparel. A tape measure costs a few dollars, a sample shirt costs a few more, and between them they remove the one risk that forces a costly re-run. When a customer is nervous about a first order, I tell them to measure a shirt that fits, order one to approve, and let the sample do the worrying. Get the measurement right once and the team run takes care of itself.
How to order custom apparel with Arklavo
To order, send your logo and rough sizes, approve a proof and a single sample, then place the full run, all with no minimum and free shipping over 150 dollars. We decorate with embroidery, direct-to-garment, screen print, and DTF, and we ship most orders in about two days. New customers can use code FIRST15 for 15 percent off a first order.
Start by browsing the custom apparel collection to pick your blank and color, or send us your design for a quote and a proof on the real shirt. We will confirm the measurements and the fit before anything goes to print, so the order that arrives matches the one you pictured.
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Request a quote Shop custom apparelHow to measure shirt size FAQ
How do I measure chest size for a shirt?
Wrap a soft tape around the fullest part of your chest, under the arms and across the back, keeping it level all the way around. That number is your full chest. If you're measuring a garment instead, take the flat width from one underarm seam to the other and double it.
What's body length on a shirt?
Body length is the distance from the highest point of the shoulder near the collar straight down to the bottom hem. It sets where the shirt falls on your torso. A shirt can fit your chest perfectly and still read wrong if the body length runs too short or too long.
How do I know my t-shirt size?
Measure a tee that already fits you well. Take the chest width and body length, double the flat chest, and match both numbers to the chart for the brand you're buying. Pick the row that matches, sizing up if you're between two rows or want a relaxed fit.
Should I size up?
Size up if you land between two rows on the chart, prefer a relaxed drape, or are ordering a slim blank and want more room. Stay at your measured size for a closer, true-to-size fit. When unsure, sizing up is the safer hedge, since a shirt that's slightly roomy beats one that's too tight.
How do I measure sleeve length?
For a long sleeve, measure from the center back of the neck, over the shoulder, and down a slightly bent arm to the wrist. For a short sleeve, lay the shirt flat and measure from the shoulder seam straight down to the sleeve hem.
What tape do I need?
A soft, flexible cloth tape measure is best for the body, since it wraps cleanly around your chest. For measuring a garment laid flat, any tape measure works, including a rigid one. Keep whichever tape you use flat and relaxed rather than pulled tight.
How do I measure for printing or embroidery placement?
For a left-chest logo, the mark usually sits about seven to nine inches from the shoulder seam and centered over the chest. For a full front print, measure down from the collar to set the top edge. We confirm exact placement on a proof before printing, so you approve the position on the real shirt.
Do unisex sizes measure the same as men's?
Unisex sizes are cut on a straight, men's-style block, so they read close to a men's size. Someone who wants a fitted look often sizes down one or picks a slimmer blank. Our unisex size converter helps translate between men's, women's, and unisex so a mixed group lands right.
Sources
- Bella+Canvas, official size chart and garment measurement guide: bellacanvas.com/size-chart
- S&S Activewear, Gildan 5000 Heavy Cotton T-Shirt specification with flat measurement notes: ssactivewear.com/p/gildan/5000
- Gildan, official 5000 Adult T-Shirt product page and sizing: gildan.com
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